We’ve all seen surfing films like ‘Big Wednesday’ or ‘Endless Summer’ and imagined what it might be like to be a proper surfer. In reality, it’s a difficult sport to master and takes endless patience – but there’s really nothing like the feeling when you finally stand upright and ride that first wave. If you really want to give it a go, we recommend following some of these tips below, and maybe if you really catch the bug think about looking at surfing schools over the summer:
Find a balance point: In order for you to surf successfully you have to achieve perfect balance with your board. This doesn’t mean your board has to lie flat all the time: rather it has to be in the same relation to the water, whatever the condition of the surf, as it would be if it didn’t have your weight on it. If you put too much weight on the front of the board the nose will dig in the water and this is known as ‘pearling’. However, put too much weight on the back of the board and it will ‘cork’. If your board is doing either of these things, move up very slowly, inch by inch, until you feel you have reached the right point. As you get more experienced you will learn to recognise where this balance point is.
Use front crawl paddle: To approach the wave correctly you need a constant speed and this is achieved by using both arms alternately to paddle. If you use both arms together you will speed up and slow down as your arms leave the water and so you will not be able to ‘feel’ the wave and catch it.
Practice makes perfect: When it comes to sitting and then standing on the board, this can take many, many hours, days or even weeks of falling off and getting back on again, so you need perseverance above anything else. When sitting, try to do it as smoothly and gently as possible as then the board is less likely to rock. When it comes to standing, practice putting your palms down, pushing your upper body up and moving your feet under you in one smooth movement – the quicker the better. Once up (and remember this will probably take a while) stay as slow and crouched as possible, place your feet shoulder width apart and look straight ahead of you. Never stand up straight as you will easily lose your balance.
Staying safe: As with all sports, there are certain risks involved and as an amateur surfer you have to know how to stay safe. Never surf alone when you’re starting out, have a safety leash and nose guard attached to your board as if you lose your grip on it when you fall off it can cause you serious injury. Also, keep at a safe distance from other surfers and don’t ever put yourself in a position where your board is between you and the incoming waves.
If you’ve practiced and practiced and not lost patience and feel as though this is something you could take up as a real hobby, now might be the time to check out surfing schools. Enrolling in a school will mean you can be taught by a professional who will show you how to avoid bad habits and how to perfect your style. Surfing school will also help you meet other budding wave warriors so you can even go on group surfing holidays when you’ve all honed your skills.
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